Monday, October 13, 2008

Dude Looks Like a Lady

Mom, maybe let dad read this one first.

During my photographic adventure in Phuket, I couldn't help but run into some of the many ladyboys (or katoey in Thai). Ladyboys are basically transvestites in different stages of their transformation.

Thai society is pretty open and accepting of ladyboys. They are out in the open, and really don't face any harassment. Don't' get me wrong, its not like you are going to rise to be CEO of a company as a ladyboy. You're career options are probably limited to the sex industry, waitressing, hair dressing or some service type job.

The last time that I was in Phuket I went to the Simon Cabaret show with Tim. This show features an entire cast of ladyboys performing dance routines in Vegas show-girl like outfits. I didn't go to Simon's this time, but I certainly didn't entirely miss the show.

On my first morning I was taking pictures of the Vegetarian parade when two "women" asked me to take their picture. It took me a few seconds to realize that they were not exactly women, but ladyboys. They were wearing white t-shirt and jeans like most of the parade crowd. They were very nice, so I obliged and took their picture. They didn't hassle me for money like a lot of ladyboys do. Ladyboys seem to like to have their pictures taken. In Patong (the beach resort towns in Phuket), they'll ask you to take their picture, but they'll want money from you. These girls were different, they just seemed to be having fun. They didn't hassle me for money or sell me anything. It was actually kind of nice for someone to just ask me to take their picture. These two girls are at the bottom of the page.

My next katoey moment was walking along Thaweewong road in the afternoon. Along side the vendors hawking suits, t-shirts, taxi rides, and was a group of "ladies" offering massages. One of the ladyboys offered me not only a massage, but to orally enhance my Paton experience for the low price of $30. While I appreciated that she was looking out for my interest, I politely decline her offer. Later I learned that while accosted by an eager masseuse in one of the many massage parlors (they seem like they are every fifty feet), I said I was hungry and had to eat first. In any case, what was most interesting about this particular ladyboy is that I might not even have picked up that she was a ladyboy were it not for the company that she kept.


Phuket is known in part for its sex tourism, and no street epitomizes that more than Bangla Road. This street truly comes alive at dark when the go go bars and beer bars (where you pick up bargirls) open for business. The police close the street off to traffic, and tourists, vendors and those plying the sex trade mingle in a visual feast. It is truly an amazing place to people watch. If you visit Phuket, and if you go to Thailand, I recommend visiting Phuket for its beautiful beaches, then you should visit Bangla street at night. You've probably never seen anything like it.

Of course, the most flamboyant residents of Bangla street are the ladyboys dressed in their show gowns. While the bargirls might not be subtle in applying their charms to get your interest and money, the ladyboys are very aggressive. They are in the middle of the street, trying to get you to take pictures with them or to get them to go to their show. You can avoid them by just walking around them, but if you are walking down the middle of the street with a high end camera and lens around your neck, you'll probably be targeted. I ended up paying two a couple of bucks each to take some photographs. That of course, was like giving a couple of coins to a group of kids. Suddenly others realize that their is money to be had. I ended up tipping a few more for pictures (at a reduced rate) and went on my way. I walked back down the street later and one of the ones from earlier came up and held on to my arm. Her friend asked me if I liked ladyboys. I think that he might have thought that I didn't know that she was a ladyboy. I smiled and said that they were nice to look at, but I wasn't interested in "boom boom" with them. We laughed and I went on my way.

During my entire trip I never had any trouble with the ladyboys. I was always overly polite and wasn't interested in hooking up with them. They do have a reputation for being a bit tempremental. I think if you slighted a ladyboy by acting disgusted by what they are then there might be a bit of a scene. Remember, these are men who were so unhappy with being a man that they underwent surgery and hormone therapy to become a woman. They might not always be the most stable of people.

For those people who are looking to "party" with the ladyboys, I can't offer any advice from first hand experience. From what I've read you should probably be careful. Make sure that you know what you are getting into. Some of the ladyboys are pre-op below the waist, while others have already had the surgery to replace their penis with a "vagina". If you are going to freak out if your hired date can still pee standing up, you should probably find out before you make the arrangements. If you express shock and "awe" shit when she stiffens back at the room, it might not be a good scene. At best you'll probably end up paying for services neither wanted nor rendered, and at worst, a very unpleasant scene.

Ladyboys are also fairly common in areas of Bangkok and Pattaya. If you come to the kingdom, you have to see them.

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From Ladies and Gentlemen
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From Ladies and Gentlemen
From Ladies and Gentlemen
From Ladies and Gentlemen
From Ladies and Gentlemen

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